В обсуждении традиционной сорочки, уважаемый Homme Eminent упомянул о манжетах и воротниках без клея.
Разберем это понятие и научимся отличать клеевые детали рубашки от не клеевых.
Клеевые материалы позволяют с наименьшими затратами труда создавать жесткие элементы изделия. Те люди, которым доводилось самостоятельно гладить себе рубашки, видели на манжетах и воротниках в местах сгибов заломы и отслоения. Именно это и является негативной стороной клеевого метода производства рубашек.
С традиционной технологией пошива сорочек знакомы не многие портные. Некоторые мастера намеренно её избегают в виду сложности. Данный метод позволяет отказаться от клеевых материалов при сохранении жесткости воротников и манжет.
Для того чтобы отличить не клеевую сорочку от обычной, следует на воротнике и манжетах попытаться отделить рубашечную ткань от внутренней прокладки.
Если у вас это получилось (результат как на фото), сорочка традиционная.
Достоинства традиционной сорочки:
1) Больший срок службы.
2) Эластичность воротника и манжет.
3) Повышенная устойчивость к стиркам.
Единственным недостатком является стоимость, обоснованная большими трудозатратами портного.
…
))
4) Верность традициям
Спасибо, Григорий! Именно об этом я и говорил!
3) Повешенная устойчивость к стиркам.
Полезная статья. Когда буду покупать сорочку — обязательно воспользуюсь
Спасибо, Сергей, исправил.
Григорий, простите великодушно, что опять выступаю в роли бабы Яги, которая против, но…
Мне все еще непоняно, почему клееные воротнички — это всегда плохо. В «традиционном» воротничке нельзя добиться той гладкости, что есть у клееного. Некоторые компании (Charvet) поэтому специально проклеивают какие-то части воротничка (например, его кончики). Charvet сложно упрекнуть в экономии на качестве.
Также неясно, почему клееные воротнички служат меньше времени.
Хороший материал по теме, с объяснением всех плюсов и минусов, здесь: http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showpost.php?p=830581&postcount=29.
Андрей
Андрей, спасибо за комментарий.
Не стану с Вами спорить, т.к. мнение Александра Каббаза, равно как и мое имеет право на существование.
По существу:
Гладкость. Традиционные воротники, по крайней мере, нашего производства, и визуально и по ощущениям не менее гладкие, чем клеевые. Да, они не монолитны, но волнами не идут.
По поводу приклеивания кончиков воротника (в местах, где проходит краевой шов) это возможно, но делается не столько для внешнего вида, сколько для удобства сборки. Этот способ больше нравится портным. Но для себя я просил сделать полностью не клеевую рубашку и остался доволен.
По поводу службы. Сейчас я скажу, что стирал клеевые рубашки и традиционные, при этом традиционные служили дольше и Вы усомнитесь в качестве сборки клеевых воротников. Тем не менее, именно это я и скажу, добавлю, что клеевые воротники мы изготавливаем по всем правилам, рекомендованным производителями вспомогательных материалов и руководствуясь личным опытом.
На последок замечу, что мы продолжаем шить клеевые рубашки, в машинном исполнении. Также можем изготовить ручную сорочку с клееным воротником и манжетами, но своим друзьям я этого советовать не решусь.
P.S.
Баба Яга необходима нашему блогу, но не каждый решится играть её роль!
Отличная статья! Возьму на заметку обязательно!
Да, действительно шить традиционную сорочку намного сложнее. Но результат оправдывает все старания! По крайней мере, в домашних условиях…
Дурят нашего брата. Уже и рубашки начали клеить. Теперь в магазине буду все рубашки проверять тестом Пронина.
у некоторых рубашек в уголках воротника пластмассовые вставки в специальных кармашках.
Я вообще портной по женской одежде, но всегда было интересно попробовать себя во всём. И в мжской одежде в том числе. Я кое что знаю, о некотором (может быть правильно) догадываюсь. Вы бы не могли мне посоветовать хорошую литературу по изготовлению мужской одежды???
Ещё один интересный факт, буду использовать, спасибо!
[...] швов выполнено вручную 2) Петли выметаны вручную 3) Безклеевой воротник и манжеты 4) Пуговицы, пришитые на ножке, гусиной лапкой. 5) [...]
[...] с клеенными манжетами и воротниками.Читаем о том, как отличить традиционную сорочку от клеевой. “Все кина не будет-электричество [...]
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Григорий, а что если на не сорочке (richard james) воротник(традиционный) волнами пошел? Это лечится? или просто сорочка неудачная?
Есть такая поговорка: «Портной гадит, утюг гладит».
Т.е. для начала нужно правильно поутюжить воротник.
Ну а что там на самом деле, не видя не скажу.
Григорий.
Спасибо, Григорий, подробней, на SF форуме покажу.
[...] клеенный воротник сорочки от не клеенного? КАК ОТЛИЧИТЬ ТРАДИЦИОННУЮ СОРОЧКУ ОТ КЛЕЕВОЙ? Не стоит благодарностей To view links or images in signatures your [...]
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