Экономика на подъеме, фондовый рынок ставит рекорд за рекордом. Люди покупают акции, вкладывают в квадратные метры, берут кредиты! «Страна марширует по высокогорному плато процветания», пишет один из основателей неоклассической экономики Ирвинг Фишер…
А уже через 10 дней, 29 октября 1929 года происходит невиданное ранее падение фондового рынка, биржевой крах Уолл-Стрит. Наступает время, вошедшее в историю под названием Великая депрессия.
Пока лучшие умы проводят параллели и спорят по поводу вероятного развития современной экономики, предлагаю окунуться в мир моды 1930-х годов.
Как известно, во времена Великой депрессии на плаву остались только сильные предприятия, имевшие средства переждать годы кризиса. Некоторые фирмы успешно поглотили своих конкурентов и, в итоге, извлекли пользу из происшествия.
По аналогии складывался контингент заказчиков ателье 30-х. Люди, привыкшие шить одежду на заказ, не отказались от своих предпочтений.
Господа, оставшиеся верными своему стилю, не просто переждали Великую депрессию, но и создали новый виток моды. Как не парадоксально, мода во времена застоя отличалась изобилием импровизации и нарушением правил.
Именно в 30-е годы Американский мужчина занял первое место на пьедестале стиля. Произошло это благодаря культурному обогащению в период между войнами. Состояние моды 30-х годов подтверждает кинохроника и периодические издания: мы видим большое количество изысканно одетых людей.
Несмотря на кризис экономики, бизнесмены Чарли Манн и Мильтон Холден, киноактеры Фред Астер, Хамфри Богарт, Гари Купер, Дуглас Фербанкс, Кларк Гейбл, Гари Грант, Адольф Менджу, Рей Милланд, Тирон Пауэр, Джордж Рафт, Джимми Стюарт и Роберт Тейлор несли законы изящества в массы.
Британия также пропагандировала «заказной» вкус. Бюллетень профсоюза «Тейлор и Каттер» (Портной и раскройщик) гласил: «мужчина не может ухаживать убедительно, если только не носит пальто, скроенное в пределах полмили от Пиккадилли».
Усилилась роль костюма, как символа различия между социальными классами. Костюм, шитый на заказ по сей день является признаком высшего сословия.
Таким образом, глобальное бедствие не сильно затронуло портновское ремесло. Оно сделало модели одежды скромнее, элегантнее. Ушла в тень показная роскошь. В моду пришел незаметный шик.
Прошу считать мои рассуждения на тему кризиса домыслами человека, далекого от мира финансов. Как известно, кризис способен затронуть всё общество, причинить неудобства во всех сферах. Надеюсь, его удастся избежать и данная статья останется всего лишь экскурсом в историю мира моды.
Используемые материалы:
Миронин С.
«Великая Депрессия: как все начиналось.»
Алан Флассер.
«Одевая мужчину: овладение искусством неизменной моды.»
Иллюстрации:
www.businessweek.com
www.esquire.com
Ребят у меня вопрос. может немного не по теме, но просто не знаю куда написать.
Если на пиджаке 3 пуговици – то при повседневной носке какие пуговици должны быть застегнуты, а какие расстегнуты.
Не знаю, как более корректно задать этот вопрос, но надеюсь вы поняли.
Нижнюю пуговицу не застёгивают никогда.
Мартин, в пиджаке с тремя пуговицами застегивается одна, средняя пуговица. Верхняя пуговица и петля может быть спрятана за отворотами лацканов, если это позволяет модель пиджака (верхняя пуговица «трансформер»).
При большом желании, пиджак на трех пуговицах также можно застегивать на две верхние пуговицы.
Нижняя пуговица не застегивается никогда, как уже сказал Гамблер.
Григорий, это не честно такие аналитические статьи выкладывать по субботам! По поводу кризиса: думаю, что для человека, потерявшего работу в связи с кризисом, будет явно не до похода к портному…
Есть у меня буклетик фирмы Леви»С – «Levi’s pocket history» – с выставки в Москве 1975!!! года (кто жил в то время – тот поймет что такое означала эта выствка для нас, не видевших толком и джинсов-то тогда), так вот к существу вопроса: фирма Леви»с продолжала шить джинсы во время великой депрессии и, как там написано, заскладировала ими все: и даже офисные помещения, вплоть до туалетов! Все депрессии и кризисы рано или поздно заканчиваются – и это тоже надо иметь ввиду. Они оказались на стартовой линии первыми.
Григорий, спасибо большое за Вашу статью.
Кризис не радует никого, и думаю, количество Ваших клиентов уменьшится. Другой вопрос, насколько? Кризис больше вссего ударит именно по среднему классу, большинство представителей которого в нашей стране живут в кредит. По High-классу кризис ударит не так сильно — у них и финансовые запасы больше, и активов тоже больше. И управлять они активами умеют по-другому. Так что едва ли Ваш бизнес пострадает очень сильно — все же у Вас одевается преимущественно не средний класс. А человек, привыкший шить себе костюм, едва ли резко перейдет на готовое платье. Это принципиально разные вещи. Ну, может ткань чуть поскромнее выберет.
Что касается истории с Levi’s, рассказанной г-ном Петроф, то мой хороший друг сказал пару недель назад золотые слова (процитировал кого-то). Суть в том, что кризис — лучшее время вкладывать в себя. Он когда-нибудь точно закончится, и вот тогда надо быть действительно на первой линии. Не тратить время на мешкание, а стартовать без потери времени.
По сути вопроса: что изменится в моих тратах в связи с кризисом? Лично я стал меньше тратить на одежду, а увеличил траты на… приятное времяпрепровождение в кругу дорогих мне людей (пусть и не радикально — финансов больше не стало, а что будет дальше, не знает никто). Как написал в своем блоге г-н Бершидский, кризис пытается взорвать нам мозг. Именно в это время стоит обратить внимание на родных и близких и проводить с ними больше времени. Доставлять им удовольствие своим вниманием. И получать удовольствие от этого самом. А купить себе пятнадцатую пару обуви ручной работы или какой-то там …цатый костюм я успею, когда закончится кризис, будь он неладен.
Ну и созранять спокойствие и не паниковать — все равно от большинства из нас ситуация радикально не зависит.
С уважением,
Константин .
Петроф,
Спасибо за историю.
Если Вы сможете прислать мне фото буклета, я с радостью выложу его здесь.
Константин,
Благодарю за ответ. Я тронут глубиной Ваших размышлений. Во многом согласен.
«в пиджаке с тремя пуговицами застегивается одна, средняя пуговица.»
Не знал, спасибо.
Буду рад увидеть в блоге подобную статью о советской моде 20 века ( до революции, после, во время войны и после )
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